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Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2013/2014

Man/Woman dualities take on new gender blending: his peacoat over her nightie, his trench over her sheer skirt, her embellishments on his jacket, his oxfords bow-tied with her satin ribbon laces.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten
Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

The New Generosity: new comfort zones look appealing and intriguing, with shift dress shifting farther from the body, oversized jackets

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten
Derek Lam

Derek Lam

The New Modesty: major cover-up with high necklines, long sleeves. Prim and proper looks show skin only on fingers and sometimes legs

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney
Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Now & then team-up: Inspirations from the 20’s to the 80’s take on modern twists, like an oversized jacket of the 80’s getting a modern look in rounded rather than shoulder-padded silhouettes in lighter weight dimensional fabrics

Givenchy

Givenchy
Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent

Color: Black, white, black-and-white and shades of gray, Camel, Powdered pastels, Pink, Green, Teal, Purple, Red, Orange, Yellow and navy blue

Fabric: We see fabric manipulation, like a painted knit that looks like crackled leather or flocked lame that looks like crocodile.

Fashion gets Religion: Long black priestly dresses

Valentino

Valentino

Plaid, checks and prints: Plaids range from the tartans of Scotland to grunge to a mix of the two. Dizzying digitalized prints look démodé, florals are back, print themes include brain scans, animals, pinstripes and geometrics. Nature prints include cockroaches, beetles, butterflies, dandelions and landscapes

Givenchy

Givenchy
Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Fur: colored broadtail, marbleized mink, sheared mink, let-out mink, silver fox, patchworked fox, Asiatic raccoon, Mongolian lamb, dyed chinchilla, shearling, printed shearling, printed pony, hair calf, colored goat lynx, Russian sable, leopard-printed rabbit, animal print sheared beaver, ombre-dyed fox. Artistry takes furs to the pinnacle of haute. Attachable/detachable fur turtlenecks seen.

Leather: python, cowhide, sheepskin, pigskin, lamb, pony, fox, mink, goat, patent, rabbit, lizard, tooled leather, eyeleted leather, embossed leather, quilted leather, distressed leather, ostrich and alligator, all fake or real. Key to the collage/patchworks of the season mingling with fur, rubber and more.

 

 

 

Accessories: White past Labor Day in shoes and bags

Shoes: His shoes for her (loafers, oxfords and moccasins) in flats and heels. Pointy-toe pumps with instep and ankle supports. Second-skin boots that hug the legs. Rocker boots.
Bags: Some have longer straps that can be shortened. Hands-on bags are a new security force. We see handlebar bags in fur, camo bags, backpacks and bags that match suits, coats, dresses and shoes.
The belt: is the accessory that makes everything look new.
Caps: from fur to leather to knit.
Gloves: go from no finger to one finger to fur boxers.
Jewelry: The hot jewels of the season are ear wraps and message necklaces.

 

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